Use a wood that will withstand the weather.

In Northern Nevada, that means a wood that will hold up in heat, cold, and wet. Brian Luce, who’s been in the lumber business most of his life and is now working in sales for High Sierra Lumber in Reno, recommends using con heart (short for construction heart) redwood. Cedar will work too, but it isn’t as readily available in our area. Luce advises getting redwood that is red throughout. White patches in redwood will rot with exposure to moisture, just like other woods. A coating of sealant will keep the wood red and also help protect it from the elements. Or leave it natural; the wood will weather to a natural gray.

Screw holes can be pre-drilled to start the screws. A galvanized screw with a Phillips head will drill easily and avoid splitting wood as well as marks left by misses with a hammer. Luce says a rule of thumb is to use screws twice as long as the thickness of the board you are attaching. For example, 1- by 12-inch boards are really 3/4 of an inch thick, so you would use 1 1/2-inch galvanized Phillips head screws. For 2- by 6-inch boards he recommends 3-inch screws with a width of about 3/16 of an inch.

Plan for drainage.

No matter what the dimensions or design of your planter, it needs to allow water to drain out. Ron Gustafson, consulting horticulturalist with G & G Nursery in Sparks, recommends leaving the bottom off completely if planters are going to sit on soil. Water will drain directly into the soil. If the box will be on a patio or deck, it will need a bottom that drains.

Match the size of the box to its contents.

What type of box will you make? What will go in it? Where will it go? Once you make one decision the others will follow. If you decide to build a small box for your patio, the plants you use to fill it will be small, too. If you decide you want to put a small tree in the box, you must build a planter big enough for the tree’s roots. Gustafson notes: Don’t make the box so big you can’t reach in it to weed and maintain the plants.

Use good soil and plan for watering.

The planter is as good as its soil. Gustafson recommends using triple-mix soil that has organic matter that holds moisture and provides nutrients to the plants. Add drip-watering lines, laser-cut lines for rows of plants, or misters if you plant the box like a bed. After you’ve planted, remember to fertilize your mini-garden regularly. Gustafson uses a liquid fertilizer.

Place your planter carefully
and protect nearby structures.

Pretty plants can cause ugly damage. Never put a planter where it will come in direct contact with a wooden fence or house wall. George Wolf of Nev-Cal Home Inspections in Reno has conducted 6,000 inspections in the last 18 years. He says that moisture from the planter can get trapped next to wood causing wood rot, or damage from fungus or mold.

“I have seen instances where a wood or masonry planter box was constructed using the wood house structure as one side of the box. The result was deterioration of the house structure, requiring structural repair,” Wolf says. “If a planter will be against the house structure, a waterproof flashing [corrosion-resistant sheet metal or other waterproof construction material] should be installed to keep the house structure dry.”

Damage to a fence may take longer to develop since most fences are made of a moisture-resistant material. Still, it’s common sense to leave a space between the planter and the fence so air can circulate and so you can clean any leaves or debris that collect there. On a patio, protect wood or concrete with a pan to catch water or set the planter on spacers or a wheeled platform—you can move it around easily, and any drips can dry.

Suzanne Williams is a Reno-base freelance writer.