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The Nevada Table: The Perfect Pie Crust—Easier Than You Think! |
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Written by by Lara Ritchie
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Wednesday, 01 October 2008 |
One of the first times I tried to impress a guy it was with a peach pie. I still shudder when I remember the chewy, gummy crust that could not be sawed through and was filled with runny, over-cooked, over-spiced peaches. While that pie was a good indicator of where that relationship was headed, I am more than thankful I did not stop trying to make a good pie.
I believe there are only a handful of dessert recipes that anyone should be able to execute with confidence—those recipes that any cook, chef, and friend can pull off. I am not talking about fancy, week-long preparations. What I suggest is that a pie, a birthday cake, and a batch of mouth-watering cookies are must-have baking techniques.
This fall, as you put away your T-shirts and unfold your sweaters, let’s usher in the season’s bounty by making a pie. Apple, of course! The aroma of a fresh-baked apple pie (topped with vanilla ice cream) is enough to ensnare even the most timid of chefs into the kitchen to bake one up.
In the world of pastry and baking, here are a few guidelines that I have found to be worth their weight in gold. Buy the best ingredients, measure correctly, and use the right technique. I would also add, bring attitude of fearlessness as well. There is no reason you should be wary of baking—once you learn the basics, the rest is as easy as pie (I truly had to go there)!
When you are baking, you become an architect of food. You are creating something unique, and as such the ingredients you use should be worthy of your time and effort. Stock your pantry with good quality vanilla, Madagascar being the most highly prized of vanillas. Unsalted sweet cream butter is the best choice and enables you to decide how much salt to add to your recipes. Your flour is an interesting choice as well. Guisto’s brand is my flour of choice. It is organic and has a consistent level of protein with each bag. Store your flour in an airtight container that gives you enough room to scoop without throwing flour all over your kitchen. Salt should be a fine grain and not iodized—sea salt or kosher are both good choices. These ingredients are the building blocks of baking.
Measuring correctly could be called the cornerstone. Bakers who use a scale to measure and weigh their ingredients will end up with less variation in their pastries. I have found that when I use a scale, it cuts down on prep time as well. If your recipe is in cups, however, you will need to adjust your measuring technique. The most accurate method is to use a big kitchen spoon and gently sift the flour into a dry measuring cup. You will keep sifting the flour until it forms a small mound over the top of the cup. At this point, take a flat edged tool—a knife will work—and scrape the flour off the top with the knife sliding along the rim of the cup. This is where having a large storage container helps to cut down on the mess. It is critical that you use dry measuring cups and buy the ones that have a separate cup of each measurement—whole cup, half, third, you get the idea. If you end up using a wet measuring cup, you could end up with upwards of a two-ounce difference over what is called for in the recipe.
Once you have measured out the ingredients, it is time to start making the pie crust. The goal is for it to be flaky and tender. The key points are keeping your ingredients chilled and not overmixing the dough. In pie crust, butter tastes best, but shortening will help hold the crust together better. If these two ingredients and your water are warm, they will incorporate too quickly into the dough and will result in a chewy crust. The dough should look marbled. You will see strands of butter throughout it, with the shortening being fully mixed in. Food processors are the right tool for the job. Use the pulse function, and a metal blade to cut the butter into the dough. At the end of mixing, quickly add the water. Once mixed, dump the dough on your counter and use the heel of your hand to smear the dough together. You want to handle the dough as little as possible. Gather the dough together to form a disk, wrap in plastic wrap, and let it rest in the refrigerator for more than one hour. This will allow the gluten in the dough to relax and not bounce back as you roll it out.
The next step may change your feelings about making pie altogether. Place the pie dough between two large pieces of plastic wrap and then roll it out. By using plastic instead of flour you will keep the dough from sticking to the roller, you, and the counter. It also ensures that your dough will not be tough by the incorporation of more flour as it is rolled out. After you reach your desired size, simply peel back the top layer of plastic, put your hand underneath the dough and flip it into the pie plate. The plastic should be facing you. Before peeling off the plastic, make sure your crust is right where you want it to be. Then, you only need to add your filling, put the top crust on, and bake.
To make your pie a window-stealing masterpiece, brush a little heavy cream on the top and sprinkle with sugar. The heavy cream will help to create a golden brown color and the sugar…well, it just tastes great.
Once you’ve made your first pie, I predict you’ll be coming up with a good excuse to make your next. Lucky for you, pie crust freezes well. Make sure to wrap the dough tightly in plastic and label it with the date you made it. Three months is the rule. If you have not made it in three months, then you know what you will be making for dessert that night.
Lara Ritchie is the culinary director and a teacher at Nothing To It! Culinary Center.
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BASIC PIE CRUST
• 2 ½ cups unbleached, all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon sea salt
• 2 teaspoons granulated sugar (for sweet filling), or 1 tablespoon of a fresh herb (for a savory filling)
• 8 tablespoons cold cubed unsalted butter
• 6 tablespoons cold vegetable shortening
• 5 to 6 tablespoons ice water
1. Combine the flour and salt in a bowl. 2. Add the sugar or herb. 3. Add the butter and shortening, working quickly to cut them into the flour mixture. (You can do this with a pastry blender, two forks, or your food processor). 4. When the mixture resembles coarse crumbs, sprinkle the ice water over the mixture until you can press the mixture together with your fingers. 5. Now take out about a cup of the mixture and place it on your work surface. 6. With the heel of your hand smear the mixture across the board to combine it. 7. Repeat this with the rest of the dough and then form the entire amount into a ball. 8. Divide the ball into two equal pieces and flatten each slightly. 8. Wrap the dough in wax paper, and refrigerate for at least an hour. If desired, you can also freeze it at this point.
*makes a bottom and top crust
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