 Growth in our area is taking its toll on native bird habitat. And aggressive, invasive species such as the starling only up the competition. As such, bluebirds—both the Mountain, the Nevada state bird, and the Western bluebird nest here—could use a little help with nesting areas. And this is just what Donna Hagerman, who generously supplied the plans for this birdhouse—here built by Steve Stegmeir, construction manager for the Truckee Meadows Habitat for Humanity—has been doing in Northern Nevada for over 20 years. She has placed 250 houses—150 of which she built herself—in various locations throughout the area, providing nesting opportunities for numerous bluebirds. If you live in an area conducive to bluebird nesting—near a pasture, meadow, or field—find a spot about four to six feet off the ground and place your house. And because bluebirds are very territorial, if placing multiple houses, put them no closer than 100 yards apart. According to Hagerman, this is best done in February or March. If your yard is not suitable for the bluebird, consider placing your house, as does Hagerman, in an area that is (be sure to get permission before doing this). Then, watch and wait. Keep in mind that bluebirds will return to nesting areas they’ve roosted in in previous years, especially if they’ve been successful, so you may not have a nester right away. But with some luck, you’ll get the opportunity to watch a feathered family grow right there in the box you made.
Materials 1 board, 1 by 8 inches by 6 feet; pine or cedar
11 screws, #7 by 1 1/2-inches; deck screws work nicely
6 screws, #7 by 1 1/4-inches; for cleat
2 duplex nails, 2 1/2-inches
2 round-headed screws, 3/4 inch
1 piece Masonite or Plexiglas, roughly 3 inches by 4 inches Precut Wood: See diagram below for sizes of all needed pieces. 
Tip: When mapping out your pieces on the wood board, leave a small amount of space between each piece to account for the kerf of the saw—the width of the cut made by the saw—to ensure that your pieces don’t come out too small.
 Step 4. Attach cleat: The cleat helps hold the lid of the box in place. To make sure you get it in the correct place, lay the house on its back, and put the lid firmly in place. Place cleat accordingly. Hold and screw in place.
Step 5. Secure lid: The lid is secured by two duplex nails—double-headed, duplex nails are meant to be easily removed and put back. To create the holes for the nails, drill a hole through the top of the lid into each side (see photo). Slide nails in.
Step 6. Attach hole protector: The hole protector helps keep critters and other birds—especially flickers—from enlarging the birdhouse entrance hole; bigger hole means more types of birds and other creatures are able to occupy it, and you want to keep this a bluebird house. You can make your protector out of any hard-to-get-through material. Hagerman chooses Plexiglas, but it can be difficult to cut. Alternatively, Masonite will work (and can be cut with the same tools that you cut your wood with). Simply create a piece that is roughly 3- by 4-inches, put a hole in it the same size as the hole in the front of the house, and attach it with the two round-headed screws.
Tip: Be sure to smooth the edges of the hole protector so your nesting friends don’t get hurt by rough surfaces.
Draw false entrance holes: When bluebirds are looking for a nesting spot, they are looking for a hole. The actual entrance to this birdhouse is not easy to spot—especially from above—because of the overhang of the lid. False holes will help attract a bird to the house; it can find the actual hole once it is closer.
To create the false holes, simple draw them on with a permanent marker.
You now have yourself one inhabitable bluebird birdhouse.
Tip: There is no need to stain or paint your birdhouse. Hagerman has houses that have been out in the wild for over 20 years, and they are still in fine shape.
Tip: To weatherize your birdhouse, it is advisable to caulk around the cleat. “Use any hand-squeeze tub and tile caulk,” says Stegmeir.
|
